Friday, August 20, 2010

10. Gondar, Ethiopia

The next morning we flew to Gondar and met Werku, who is heading up all of our projects in Ethiopia. I was excited to meet him because our church, Chase Oaks Church, in Plano has been working with Werku for over 2 years. Werku is a native Ethiopian who lives in New Zealand. He is a single man with a huge passion for his people. Werku is living in a hotel in Gondar while he waits for the apartment building to be built where he has bought an apartment. He will stay in Ethiopia from time to time, and then go back to New Zealand. He has been here for months working on getting land for a new campus for Chase Oaks Academy.

Chase Oaks Academy has a two-fold purpose. It gives many vulnerable children a good education, a good meal, a loving environment, and Christian teaching everyday. Secondly, most of the children that enroll in COA are paying students, which makes this an income-generation project. The proceeds from the tuition go toward several projects: feeding widows, an njeera project, and support for ministers who are trained and sent to different areas to start churches. The njeera project is one where mothers of Compassion International children have been given equipment which allows them to make an income, selling a staple food called njeera (like a huge pancake).

Ethiopia is very different from the other 2 African countries to which I've been. It seems more Middle-Eastern than the others. Ethiopia was never a British colony like Zambia & Kenya. It has an African flavor, but also a lot of Egyptian influence. The writing is Hebrew/Arabic in nature. Islam and Coptic Orthodox are the two prevalent religions here. The Coptic religion was derived from Catholicism, but mixed with Egyptian beliefs. This country also used to be communist. The government is very corrupt and things are really screwed up here. Werku has a hard time getting anything done with the government because he won't give them bribe money like everyone else.

Begging is extremely prevalent in Ethiopia as well. Every time we exit a Minibus or Bajaj (tuk-tuk), we are surrounded by small children and the elderly or handicapped begging us for money. It is so sad. You can't really give them anything or you will be swarmed.

We visited the old school campus, the new school campus, the widows being fed, and two recipients of micro-loans. One of the micro-loans was used for two orphan sisters (age 18 & 20) to begin a small store out of the front of their home. They live in a small shack of a house made out of cow manure and wood. Another loan was used for 3 Christian men to start a cell phone shop. They sell "top-ups" which are cards with a code you put in your cell phone to get more minutes. They also sell accessories like cases, batteries, cords, etc. Their shop is an 8 x 8 shack on the side of the road... but then, that is how most shops look around here. It is cool to see micro-finance at work in the third world. All of these projects were funded by our church. The goal is to get all of these things self-sustaining, so money from the West is no longer needed.

This is the first country where we have stayed in a hotel and eaten at restaurants. Three of us stay in a two bedroom, two bath suite for $45 a night. Lane is staying down the road for $8 per night! We drink coffee (little macchiatos) several times a day, which is by far the best coffee I've had on the trip. They also have awesome mango drinks here... we have at least two a day! The food is not so great, though, so I eat bread as much as possible. I've been very fortunate to not get sick on this trip... and I did eat local food quite a bit.

9. Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

We flew to Addis on Monday and had to wait until Tuesday to reach our destination in Gondar. While in Addis, we wanted to take advantage of the last fast internet we might have for the rest of the trip. Lane tweeted, "Does anyone know of a place to get fast wireless in Addis?" He got several responses, and it sounded like the Sheraton was the winner. So, Lane and I got in a taxi to proceed to the Sheraton. Only problem is that when we got in the car, there was a half-full bottle of Absolut Vodka lying on top of the emergency brake. I pointed it out to Lane and he said, "No, we will get another taxi" and pointed to the Vodka. The guy just laughed as we got out of the car. Alcoholism is a huge problem in Africa, so you never know who is sober around here. Maybe all the taxi drivers were drunk, but at least they hide their flasks in the glove compartment. But this guy was so blatant that we couldn't give him our money. Nor did we knowingly want to risk our lives!

At the Sheraton, I got to Skype with Jack and the girls one last time. I would not have much access to internet in Gondar.

8. Nairobi, Kenya

On Sunday, I was able to experience my first African church service on the edge of a Nairobi slum. Mathare slum is the worst place I've been to in all of my life. It is worse than what I remember from the movie Slumdog Millionaire. It was very compact and crowded. The river running through it was a sewage, trash, and toxin dump. People were washing their clothes in it. Men were using it for brewing the local slum beer. Sewage streams were running down all the walkways. Thousands of people live there, many drunkards, but surprisingly many well-dressed people as well.

Pastor Daniel Ogutu has a church on the edge of the slum called Mathare Outreach Community Church. I didn't realize at the time, but most of the people attending live in the slum.

They sat us in the front row of church and the service lasted for over 3 hours! Luckily, I wasn't really tired that morning. I loved watching them dance and sing in Swahili. The speaker was a funny Kenyan woman. She spoke in English, so I enjoyed listening to her as well. She wasn't the scheduled speaker, though. One of the reasons the service was so long is that they were waiting for the speaker to arrive. To kill time, they introduced to the stage every staff person attending, all the visitors (including us), and all the ladies who had attended the Ladies' Conference that weekend... one by one. And every person who ever sings at the church sung a song: the children's choir, the ladies' choir, the praise team, and the soloists. It was kind of entertaining. The speaker never did show, so they asked Margarate to speak.

After church we walked through the slums and then went to Pastor Daniels home. We discussed a new project he is started in Maseno which is about 6 or 8 hours away to the North. They have been given land there to do an income generation project which would help with the schools Daniel oversees in the slums and other projects. The land in Maseno is very fertile for farming, so they will use the food for the orphans in Nairobi and also generate income through selling the produce.

In the evening, we went back to our accommodations at the guesthouse of Ibrahim and Diane Omondi. I was able to meet them, but not for long. The others will be returning after I leave for home. They will be learning about a possible partnership we may want to form in Garisa, Zambia. We will see what happens with that.

The two girls cooking and serving at the guesthouse were named Mercy and Irene (with daughter Pauline). They were so sweet. Mercy was the most fun person I've met on the entire trip. She is 17 and had the cutest giggle... and she giggled constantly. If you just said "hi" or looked at her, she would giggle. What a joyful young lady!

7. My African Safari

It worked out for me to go on a Safari today! Pretty awesome! Miles and miles of savanna in a national park in Kenya. I was really anticipating seeing hippos in the wild, but they had moved down river. Hippos have been my favorite animal since 1st Grade, so I was a little disappointed.

However, it was amazing to see other animals in their natural habitat. Giraffes were my favorite! I also spotted zebra, impalas, antelope, ostriches, a small cheetah-looking cat, warthogs, crocodile, tortoises, baboons, monkeys, and a 3-foot lizard. A park ranger with a rifle took us on a walk down a trail to a river where the hippos sometimes are, but they had moved. Lions, leopards, and snakes were around, which made me a little nervous on our walk, but didn't see any. A huge baboon jumped into the sunroof of a van next to us...all the way in! No one was hurt, but he stole a girl's lunch.

Now I feel like I have truly seen Africa. In America, you always think of Africa in the way that I just saw it! Extremely satisfying.

6. Robert & Rose in Nguluni, Kenya

We arrived in Nairobi Wednesday afternoon. I am still traveling with Kevin & Helen from New Zealand and Lane from the US. We were picked up in a big blue school bus by Robert and Rose, an energetic older Kenyan couple who run various projects involving orphans and vulnerable children. We drove a couple of hours to their home and settled in for the evening.

On Thursday, we woke up early and spent the day visiting all the spots where Robert and Rose have things going on. Their home is on about an acre in a town called Nguluni. They have a home for themselves and 8 orphans. Much of their food is supplied in their own yard. They have a fish pond which is about to have 1000 tilapia put into it, and they also have honey bees, produce gardens, fruit trees, and a milking cow. On the street side of their property, there is Robert's office and a small bookstore open to the public.

Down the road, they own another few acres which contain a boarding school with over 200 children, staff housing, and a medical clinic. About 70 children board there, while the rest come from their homes. Many of these children would not attend school because of their situations.

They've also created a school in a smaller village called Isooni. These very poor children lived too far from the school in Nguluni, so they would stop going to school after a while. So Robert and Rose decided to start a school in their community. There are about 150 students there.
Each of the school grounds also houses a church. The guardians and families of the children are encouraged to attend. Robert and Rose are very spiritual people. They trust God fully for everything. They are very cute together as well, as they will hold hands and be affectionate to one another which is rare in this culture. Each of them is facing a health problem to lift up in prayer: Robert has contracted asthma and Rose just started getting headaches. They are amazing servants! Please pray for them.

5. Trip to Kamatipa

Monday we left for the "boon-docks." We drove several hours away from Ndola through a city called Chingola and on to a dirt road into the "bush" - as our Kiwi friends call it. Here, the people build their houses out of mud bricks that they make and dry in the sun. The roofs are thatch, woven from the reeds that are prevalent in this country. It is mostly flat and dry here, except for these huge ant hills that are the size of a house.

Rebekah, a Zambian woman who works with GLO, took us out there to meet her dear friends, Jeremiah & Faidess and James & Sarah. The two Zambian couples care for 22 vulnerable children. Faidess raised 10 kids of her own and now has one son and two orphans living at home. Funds from this project go to school fees and supplies for the children. These 22 were the most vulnerable ones (ages 8 to 18) found by the leaders in this village. Many of their parents have died from HIV-AIDS.

Jeremiah has gone to the gardening training at Maplehurst Farm and was happy to show us the large garden they have created. The area there is kind of swampy, so there are little pockets of water surrounding the garden. They have two watering cans which they dip into the puddles and pour on the plants. It takes hours to water all of it. They will use the produce for feeding themselves, the orphans, and for income generation. The funds will benefit the orphan program. They have also purchased land across the creek to begin more growing for the orphans. The children are working in the gardens, too, to create ownership, work ethic, and a skill for their future.

It was an interesting stay in the village. There were several huts made from home-made mud bricks and then "plastered" with this shiny mud that comes from the creek bed. It kind of looked like the texture of an adobe home. The houses had one small window and one short door. I kept banging my head on the door frame!

We played with neighborhood children until dark. In this culture, the adults mostly ignore the children, so they are excited to have interaction. I had fun teaching them songs like "head, shoulders, knees, and toes" and watching them laugh.

After dark we sat around a small fire with a pot of nshima on it. Faiduss stirred and stirred with a wooden spoon to cook it to just the right texture. The stirring looked easy (like stirring gravy) until she asked me to stir. I could barely move the spoon! It felt like stirring a tub of plaster mud. She grabbed the top end of the spoon to help me "whisk" around the cornmeal and helped me get the rhythm. When she let go I was able to make a few stirs, but I wore out after just a few! It is amazing to see the labor which goes into everything in the village. She also cooked cabbage, chicken, and tomato-onion soup to go with the nshima. This is a very typical Zambian meal. I probably had it 5 times while in Zambia.

It was pitch black outside and you could see the milky way and zillions of stars. We ate under a flashlight lamp inside the house and had tea afterward. I was to sleep on the floor where we ate, so I had to wait until everyone left to set up my bedding. Finally they left and my new friend, Rebekah, lit a little candle and helped me moved out some chairs. We set up our sleeping bags with some blankets under them and a mosquito net over them. She then said she was going out for a few minutes to let me finish settling in. So I changed clothes and crawled into my sleeping bag about 11 pm. Minutes later, Rebekah, Jeremiah, and Faiduss walk in and sit on the remaining chairs and begin having a conversation in their own language. I laid there feeling awkward, thinking, "Was I not supposed to go to bed yet? Should I get up and join them outside the mosquito netting? Do they expect me to go to sleep while they talk 3 feet from me?" It was strange for me. Finally, I decided to pretend like I was sleeping until they were gone. An hour later, they left, and Rebekah crawled under the mosquito net with me and went to sleep.

I woke up every 30 minutes or so to turn over because of the hard ground. At 3:30am, the roosters outside our door started cockle-doodle-dooing. I wanted to say "shut up, it is not even close to sunrise yet!" but I just put in my ear plugs and went back to sleep. Then I had to go to the bathroom because of the tea I was served before bed. So I grabbed my kleenex, put on my headlamp flashlight, and made the trek across the property to the outhouse that had no door. I felt like I was going to the bathroom under a spotlight, since the light on my head was the only light for miles, but I didn't want to miss the hole in the ground! My biggest fear was running across a cobra or something, because one was just seen a few days before. Thank God I didn't see anything. I made it back into my sleeping bag and later woke up, moaning, in a bad dream that my body was hurting all over. When I woke up, I WAS hurting all over from the hard ground. I'm such a city girl! It was light outside, and every person in the village was up, so I got out of bed.

They made us some yummy fritters (African donuts) and tea, and off we went to the city again. We visited two more partners on the 5-hour drive back to Maplehurst Farms. One was Elizabeth who lives in a neighborhood in Chingola and is "grandma" to 30 or so neighborhood kids by letting them hang out at her house, learn about God, and get help with school. She also meets their guardians and makes sure the kids are staying in school and out of trouble.

The second stop was to visit a sharp young guy named David, who teaches at GLO. He is passionate about Youth. He would like HOPE to help fund a small park with little cabanas on the property for youth to hang out and receive tutoring, and also to plant a garden for training and income generation for the ministry. He is the son of poor Angolan refugees and was funded by HOPE to go through leader training years ago. During some schooling, he met his wife in the UK and has come back to Zambia to help give Youth a chance, as he knows he was given.

Being back at the Farm was like heaven! It's actually pretty rustic there, but it's all relative! We ate Western food with the New Zealand couple living there, Aaron & Suzy. Their little blonde girl made me miss mine, but I was able to Skype from their house and talk to all 3 in my family! I went back to my room, showered, and re-packed all my stuff and went to bed. Off to the Lusaka airport the next morning to fly to Kenya...

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

4. The House of Lemon and Grace

On Sunday, we drove a couple of hours to stay in Ndola, where Kevin and Helen used to live in the 80's. On the same property lived a beautiful couple named Lemon and Grace and 7 of their beautiful children and numerous grandchildren. It was a house full of love and smiles. The oldest daughter runs a orphan program which we support.

We also have partnered with a group Kevin started called GLO. They train indigenous students in theology and teach them how to lead a church. They give some of our donations to give scholarships and also to help them get started in planting a church. Kevin and the director were discussing the need to have classes like what they have started at Maplehurst Farms, where the students can support themselves when they start their church. We are trying to get all our partners to think about a money making project that they can start. This helps them not to be dependent on the West for donations.

At the house, I had the opportunity to eat my first enshima, a Zambian staple. It is cornmeal cooked into a pastey dumpling thing that you use to scoop up the rest of your food. I have done much better than I did in India and have eaten solely with my hands here! Enshima is quite good, actually.

3. Maplehurst Farm

We arrived in Kabwe late Thursday night to stay at HOPE's own Maplehurst Farm. The farm was purchased in 2005 for several purposes. The farm is used primarily as the Zambian base for HOPE and a dairy farm for selling milk. This is different than our other projects, in that it is run by New Zealanders and has a purpose of income-generation for our other Zambian partnerships. Most of our projects are run by indigenous leaders. HOPE has more partnerships in Zambia than any other country, so that is why it made sense to have an income-generation project here.

The second purpose of the the farm is to teach pastors and leaders from around Zambia how to grow food for themselves and their communities. The farm has a large model garden. After the students of gardening go home, they set up a model garden, and then they can show people in the community how to have home gardens in which to grow their own food.

The first two days we visited some of our partners who were attending a conference in Kabwe and listened to a few speakers. My favorite part was to see the African people sing and dance!

I met a very interesting person who is from Hope Baptist in Las Vegas, but is now moving to Zambia. Andy Milligan is with a group called Surgance. He is moving to Africa to start peanut factories which make nutritional supplements for HIV-positive and starving kids. When given ARV medicine in combination with this supplement, many kids have been saved from the brink of death. It is brilliant. Also, his church happens to be one of our main out-of-state supporters for La Mai Coffee!

2. Trip to Zambia

I had a smooth flight to Frankfurt all Tuesday night. Found a great little brand new hotel at the airport that had a day rate. They were very flexible on my hours of stay. I stayed from 10 in the morning to 9 at night and got 8 whole hours of sleep! For those of you that know me, I don't sleep a lick on a plane, so this was a huge blessing. If you ever need a place to stay by the airport in Frankfurt, write down the Park Inn. Free shuttle, free internet, and soundproof windows. Perfect!

I made it smoothly on my next 10 hour all-night flight to South Africa. I only had one problem at the Johannesburg airport. When I went through passport control, something on the computer flagged my passport and they had to take me to the police office. For some reason the guy next to me and myself had a warrant out for our arrest from the same police station somewhere in South Africa for stealing an Avis rental car. Strangest thing. They kept asking us if we knew each other. He was from Tunizia and I was from Texas. Finally, they just let us go because they couldn't figure it out. The man and I exchanged email addresses just in case we had other issues traveling throughout Africa.

So I was escorted back to the passport checking area and toward my gate and I arrived there about 20 minutes before the flight. In all the chaos, I had missed the spot where I was to receive a boarding pass. So they said that check-in for the flight was closed. But thankfully, he made a couple of phone calls and then hand-wrote me a boarding pass on a scratch piece of paper. I took a bus to the tarmac and when I went up the stairs to my South African airplane, they asked for my boarding pass. I reluctantly handed her my scribbled paper, and she just looked at me like i was crazy and said, "This is not acceptable!" I told her it is what the guy gave me, and she shook her head and said she would have to make some calls. I survived my third hurdle and they let me on the plane. Then a few hours later I was in Zambia...about noon on Thursday. Finally here!

Oh, but no luggage! And one of my suitcases was filled with about $3000 worth of camera equipment for our friend, Lane.


Lane and Aaron were late because of traffic, but a lady they knew happen to be at the airport picking up some other people. So, they asked her to find me. Then, I turned on my phone to find that I wasn't looking for Lane, but a lady. So we finally found each other. She took me to a mall in Lusaka to meet Lane and Aaron, and it was good to finally be with a familiar face.

Instead of making the 2-hour drive to Kabwe where I was staying, we decided to hang out at the mall for 7 hours to see if my luggage would come on the next flight that came in from Jo'burg. Lane had a vested interest now in my luggage as well. Aaron is from New Zealand and had his two best buds with him who were heading out the next day, so i hung out with 4 guys all day - 3 Kiwis and a Texan! They were lots of fun.

Even if the luggage came on the next flight, Jo'burg is known for having stuff stolen out of luggage, especially when it's been sitting around. But...Thank God...both my bags came on the next flight, untouched and intact. We were happy to see Lane's equipment.

For those of you that don't know, Lane Davis is from our church in Plano, Texas, and was in our small group which meets at our house every Thursday night. He is an amazing photographer, and is spending 9 months as a photo journalist for the organization for which I work, HOPE World Partnerships. Please take a look at his amazing pictures at www.ToTellAStory.org. He mentions the organization, Bright Hope World, which is the New Zealand-based headquarters for our organization (called "Hope" in the US).

I will be traveling for three weeks with Lane and also Kevin & Helen from New Zealand, who know all of our on-site partners and where we are going.

Monday, August 2, 2010

1. Off to Africa...

My last trip of the year is to three countries in Africa. Just trying to learn more about our partnerships before coming home to encourage people in the US to partner with these leaders who need resourcing. In the future, I should be just traveling about once a summer to stay current on all our projects. Can't wait until the girls are old enough to go with me.

If you are on Facebook, my personal page has a 2-part video on the India and Thailand trip. I also describe in the video what our organization does. So if you are curious...go ahead.

I will be headed to Zambia, Kenya, and Ethiopia. I will travel with Kevin & Helen from NZ and Lane from Dallas who is already there. Lane is spending 9 months traveling as a photo journalist for our organization to capture the stories of our partners. For two years, he has been in our small group of young adults who meet at our house every Thursday night. So he is a good friend. He has been growing this crazy long beard while there, so I don't think I will recognize him. I hope he doesn't scare me! By the way, his photos of Africa are amazing. Check them out at ToTellAStory.com

Thanks for praying for my safety and health. I really want to be able to meet all our partners!

I will not have Internet a whole lot in Africa like I did last trip, but will update when I can!

Good bye for now.

Friday, April 30, 2010

The Long Trip Home

This will be the last blog for this trip. Thanks so much for your prayers. Linda and I feel so much more prepared to be advocates for the people in India and Thailand now that we have seen it all firsthand. We got a little glimpse of how God sees these people. So many of them cannot help themselves out of poverty without our resources. They are willing but have no means.

Well, here is one last story. We decided to leave Bangkok early due to the political unrest there and the fact that we couldn't see some of our partnerships anyway. All flights were overbooked until May 7th, so we thought there was a slim chance of changing flights. However, we were able to slide in on a British Airways flight to London for Wednesday night. We were booked for just after midnight and got on the airplane, excited to be leaving town. We started full speed down the runway only to come to a screeching halt halfway down. After sitting on the tarmac for a little while, we were informed that our flight was cancelled for the night. We were deplaned onto a bus and shuttled back into the terminal at 1:30 am. The next part got pretty funny....talk about the blind leading the blind! First of all, Bangkok has a gigantic and beautiful modern airport, but in the middle of the night, there aren't a lot of staff around. So 300+ people get off our plane and start walking through the terminal to get our luggage. We walked all the way to the other end of the airport to find out we weren't in the right place. So we proceeded to walk all the way back to where we started and up a few floors to get our passport stamps cancelled. Then we walked all the way back to the other end again to get our luggage. Imagine 300 people marching back and forth through this huge empty airport in the middle of the night. It was quite a sight!

So, we finally exited the airport 3 hours later at 4:30 am. Then we had to wait for a bus to take us all to a hotel in which British Airways was putting us up until our airplane was fixed. Keep in mind that we were trying to get out of Bangkok because of riots, shootings, and bombings in downtown. So instead of being out of town at the remote location of the airport, the bus drives us right back into the city... ironic! You would think we'd stay somewhere close to the airport, but no, they drove us all in 6 buses for one hour! So, we showed up at the "Miracle Hotel" at 5:30 am. We ate breakfast and went straight to bed. There was one single letter from BA that was being literally "passed around" which said we would be flying out at midnight. But no word on when we would leave the hotel or anything else. We were all laughing as we were herded around like a bunch of lost sheep. We formed quite a community with this group of people.

By the time we woke up at 2pm, they had slid a copy of that one letter under our door, which still didn't tell us when or how we got to the airport. So, we went to the lobby to find that there was a bus sign-up sheet in half-hour intervals starting at 7pm. So we took a couple of really long showers and ate dinner and checked out of the hotel to board Bus #1. I do have to admit the free hotel was very nice and we had a full banquet feast for each meal. I kept waiting for the keynote speaker!

Long story short, we did board the plane around midnight on Thursday for London... and it actually took off this time! A call to American Airlines informed us that we couldn't get on a flight from London to Dallas, except the one we were already on for Sunday morning... but I don't accept "no" very easily. We got off the plane and went straight to the connections desk and got a ticket to Dallas for no charge. We then went back to passport control, checked out of the airport, got our luggage, and then checked back in at the departure desk. When we got boarding passes, we knew we were set! We got home on Friday afternoon... Thank God! Long trip home, but two days earlier than planned which was nice.

Well, we survived the scary food, the limited clean water, the New Zealand humor (Kevin, John, and Roger), the malaria Mosquitos, the sleeping on the floor under mosquito nets, the occasional bucket showers, the brushing teeth with water bottles, the stand-up toilets in the out-houses, the washing our hands with antibacterial gel and our bodies with baby wipes, the ridiculously long flights and car rides, the 105 degree humid heat, and all the smells and sights. It was worth every minute to meet the wonderful people of India and Thailand. God created all of us and in God's economy, those with resources should be helping those without. Whether it is sharing the love and message of Jesus or making a way out of poverty, HOPE exists "to give hope and dignity to those living on less than a dollar a day." Please join us in this endeavor!

If you are interested in helping HOPE World Partnerships, please visit our website for contact information: www.HOPEworldpartnerships.org. This month, we plan to update the "Partnerships" page with detailed descriptions of our unfunded partnerships. We also need help with La Mai Coffee sales and distribution, HOPE website design, video production, and spreading the word about projects. If you have any volunteer time to give, please contact us.

Thanks again for following our adventures and praying for us.

God bless,

Susy & Linda

Monday, April 26, 2010

Four-Wheel Drive Trip

People pay big bucks for the 4-wheel driving trips we've been on in the last few days. We had our special tour guide, Mike Mann from ITDP, who by the way is a very impressive driver!

First of all, the trip to the Mahojo Village was a five-hour highway drive, a one-hour country road drive, a half-hour on a dirt road, and then an absolutely insane one-hour four-wheeling trip. This is what I would call "The Boonies". The villagers live in wood and thatch huts. They weave their own clothing. They live quite primitively.

On vacation, I have always avoided the Jeep trips on the mountain trails. I don't find being a nervous wreck very fun. However, these villages have only one entrance, so I didn't have a choice this time. The first uncomfortable part is that I sat behind the driver of the pick-up truck with my knees crammed in his back. Secondly, this was no ordinary dirt road. It was more like driving on solid rock that had foot-deep ruts and speed bumps all over it. So the driver had to stay out of the ruts and we bounced all over the backseat. Then occasionally we would get to a bend with a 300 foot drop off to one side where the trail wasn't wide enough for the truck. So some villagers had put some tree limbs across the outside edge of the trail so one set of your tires could ride on that part. As we went across, you could hear the limbs cracking underneath us...fun! Another area had completely washed out and a bridge of logs laying across the chasm acted as a bridge. On this one, you had to get one side of tires on each log and cross very cautiously. Needless to say, our driver had us get out of the car before we crossed that one, so he wouldn't have the burden of killing us if he didn't make it. Even walking across was a little harrowing.

At some point in our adventures, Linda looked at me and said "people pay big bucks for these kind of rides!" From then on, I enjoyed my trip so much better! Mike was an incredible driver which made me feel very safe and we laughed a whole lot.

Coffee

In our time near Chiang Mai, we have and will be visiting 4 villages in the bush. In these villages live the Karen, Lahu, and Akha tribes. Led by Mike Mann, the Integrated Tribal Development Programme (ITDP) has brought clean water to 250 villages across Northern Thailand. Many of these villages have also been given household toilets, electricity, schools, medical clinics, churches, and been taught some sort of agriculture to help them become self-sustaining. All of these projects require total buy-in by the villagers. They have to do most of the construction work and sometimes even have to pay back a loan for something that's been given to them, like a couple of water buffaloes.

In the hill villages we visited, coffee is being grown in the woods (shade-grown coffee). It was pretty exciting to touch the actual coffee plants that are being made into La Mai coffee. We learned that one coffee plant will yield only 1 lb of coffee in it's finished form. The organization that Linda and I run in the states, HOPE World Partnerships, stores the coffee beans in Plano, Texas, roasts it at Mark's Brothers coffee in Plano, and sells it as La Mai coffee around the country. I can't take any credit for that part, though, because Linda has done the whole thing all by herself before I ever got involved.

Another cool thing we visited here is Starbucks Thailand. Not just because we got a little taste of home, but because they buy the same beans we do and sell it under their own branding as Muan Jai. It comes from the very same villages. ITDP has led Starbucks into helping the people in the hill villages. Starbucks helped to get one of the medical clinics built. By purchasing the village coffee at fair trade prices, the farmers can better take care of their families. But ITDP doesn't just buy coffee, they help with numerous physical and spiritual needs. It is a very holistic approach.

Finally, on the topic of coffee, we will be visiting the Lanna Cafe, serving ITDP's own brand of coffee. We wanted to see the whole coffee process from plant to cup. So tomorrow we will be seeing the end of the process: roasting and serving. Can't wait to drink a cup!

In Thailand with the Red Shirts

We left Calcutta at 2am Friday to fly to Bangkok. If you've watched the international news, you've noticed that there are protests going on in Bangkok by the Red Shirts who are trying to get their ousted Prime Minister, Thaksin, reinstated. He's currently exiled in Dubai for the time being. We flew north to Chiang Mai within a few hours, but we are scheduled to spend 4 days in Bangkok starting this coming Wednesday. So please pray for us!

I am writing this on Monday, and in the few days we have been in Thailand, the protests have escalated. There have been bombs in both Bangkok and Chiang Mai this morning. The place that we were to visit to see where they rescue the girls sold into prostitution (Rahab Center) is at the very intersection in Bangkok where the riots are. Consequently, the people living and working at Rahab have evacuated and moved out for a while. So Linda and I are quite disappointed that we won't see one of the projects we were looking forward to the most. For those of you who don't know what we do with the Rahab center, you can read our coffee website, www.LaMaiCoffee.org. 100% of the profit from our fair trade coffee sales goes to help the girls involved in the Rahab center.

We may go see some other projects around Bangkok instead, but please pray for our safety from Wednesday to Saturday.

My Birthday

Well, Thursday was my birthday and I spent the day driving hours to an airport in India, flying to another airport, and then sitting in the nasty Calcutta airport for 8 hrs. We all watched a movie on my iPad propped up on suitcases. We shared headphones and all three had to keep our heads fairly close to the iPad. We were quite a sight.

On the way to the first airport, I had my birthday lunch at a Indian Truck Stop... Nice. Then for dinner at the airport, Linda made me an awesome peanut butter & jelly sandwich from things she packed from the states. The jelly was from packets she picked up from Chick-fil-A. Never enjoyed a PB&J as much as this one after eating questionable Indian food for a week and suffering from Diarrhea a few nights before.

Thank you, everyone, for all the Facebook birthday wishes and texts. I felt very loved!

Caring for Lepers

On Wednesday, we visited two Bright Hope Leper Feeding and Treatment Clinics. It certainly was not for one with a weak stomach. First of all, let me describe the disease of leprosy. I always thought it was a disease that makes one break out in sores all over the body which were painful and itchy. It is not like that at all. I learned that it is actually a bacterial infection of the nervous system which causes areas of your skin to go permanently numb. It usually starts in the hands and feet. If you catch the first bit of numbness, apparently you can be treated and don't have to suffer the consequences of full-blown leprosy. However, once it reaches a certain level in your body, you will not be able to get rid of it for the rest of your life.

So, what does a full-blown leprosy case look like? When the hands and feet have no feeling, and yet you are poor and must do manual labor and tons of walking barefoot or in flip flops, you can imagine how many cuts you would get without even realizing. Then these cuts get infected and things like gangrene and staff infections set in. This causes the loss of fingers and toes and eventually arms and legs. And that is exactly what we saw.

Emmanuel and Jessie and other neighboring pastors seek to comfort and treat these outcasts with a love like Jesus. We visited two leper colonies, where the lepers and their families are exiled to live. The people ranged from elderly to babies. The children showed no signs of leprosy, but most adults had deformed feet and hands from the amputations of digits. Once a week a team of local christians spend a full day at each center. They have named their clinics after our mother organization, Bright Hope World, who made the financial side of the clinics possible by partnering with people like you and me. But the true heroes are the local people who do all the work and sacrificially care for the people.

The clinic consists of cleaning and bandaging wounds, passing out pills for the week ahead, feeding them three large healthy meals, and giving the traveling lepers each enough money for transportation to and from the clinic. At one of the clinics, they have quite a few lepers who come from other villages.

It was quite graphic to watch the wounds get treated. Also, like most Indians, the people eat on large flat stainless steel plates with a slab of rice and some kind of meat or veggie sauce ... and they eat with their hands (even the men in suits). Except watching the lepers eat was heartbreaking. The volunteers go around and put the food on their plates and then the leper would mix the food around with his fingerless hand and shovel it into his mouth. I was glad they were getting a good meal, but it was difficult to watch.

This clinic was truly an act of love. This is where Jesus would be hanging out for sure.

Monday, April 19, 2010

Sewing Centers Give Hope

Friday night, we left Dehradun and took a long train ride back to Delhi, getting in about 2am. It was very sad to see the hundreds of people sleeping in rows on the sidewalk when we got off the train, especially the little children sleeping on the concrete. On Saturday, we visited our second of many sewing centers that HOPE World Partnerships gets to partner with. We also went to our first westernized restaurant for lunch AND dinner - a coffee shop in the Khan Market - which was a nice break from rice.

From Delhi, we took a flight to Hyderabad and Rajamundry, further south in India. There, Emmanuel Kumar came to pick us up in his Mahindra jeep (resembling a Land Cruiser) to take us to his home in Kakinada, greeting us with flowers. The area is very different than up north: tropical and humid with palm trees, sugar cane, bananas, cashews, and water buffalo. A few miles down the road from the airport, in the middle of nowhere, Emmanuel had the driver stop the car and open the back of the jeep. They took out a thermos and proceeded to serve us little cups of coffee on the side of the road. Mind you, it was about 95 degrees outside, but it was a very nice gesture and the coffee was excellent.

About an hour down the road, we reached Emmanuel & Jessie's house. We received a greeting as Linda and I never have before. There were 50 kids lined up with the boys on one side and the girls on the other. They were in their best dress with huge smiles on their faces. When we got out of the car, we were welcomed with huge necklaces of flowers that were about 4 inches in diameter and down to our knees. We felt like princesses! As we walked up to the house between the lines of children, they threw flower petals on our heads. Finally, inside the house was a huge banner with each of our names on it. What a welcome!

Emmanuel and Jessie are amazing people. These are the heroes with whom we are excited to be partnering. They saw that many poor children in the nearby villages had no chance of being successful in life if they remained where they were. The schools were not good, they did not eat well, and many did not even have parents. So the Kumars have taken into their home many of these children, now to the tune of 50 children. There, the kids have the opportunity to have good meals, solid moral teaching, and better schooling in the city. The ones that have a living parent often go home on weekends or during the summer. In addition to that, Emmanuel has a church that he runs. In addition to that, he offers training to men and women wanting to work in a nearby church. In addition to that, Emmanuel & Jessie have helped local churches get sewing programs started (more about that in a minute). In addition to that, they have a feeding and medical program for leperous women in two leper colonies. And if that is not enough, they are starting a little "side job" of breeding water buffalo and using them for milk, to help support his ministry. They are true heroes.

So, today we visited 4 villages with sewing centers. We will visit some more tomorrow and more on Thursday. These FREE sewing classes are held at churches in the villages up to 5 times per week to help with the problem of poverty and desperation. Usually, ten women can take the course for about 9 months and end up with a sewing machine and a seamstress certificate. During that time, they are also exposed to Christianity lived out by people in that church. The church gets involved in their lives and helping with family issues. The women will often ask the pastor to pray for their sick family members, even though they are Hindu.

The ladies told us today that their husbands might make $1 a day doing a seasonal job such as farming, which cannot meet their family needs. Since finishing the program, many of them can make $3 per day, which quadruples their family income! They were all thankful to the church for offering the program.

It was fascinating walking through the villages today. I finally know what it feels like to be Brittany Spears. So many of these people were seeing a white person for the first time. People were coming out of their houses staring, pointing, or waving. I even gave one autograph... seriously, I did.

Yesterday, I hit a wall. Day #5 was when Kevin says it usually hits him, and I got slammed exactly on day five. I had so much jet lag and sleep deprivation that I hardly could stay awake and I even had to hide out in my room for about 30 minutes and have a good cry. I got to talk to Jack on Skype which was nice. I pulled it together until bedtime and then finally got to crash. Consequently, I felt great today. Thank God. I'll report again in a day or two.

Friday, April 16, 2010

The Wild Ride to the Ganges River

On our vacations, Jack tells me these crazy stories of near-death experiences he's just had, after he hikes up a mountain and almost falls off a cliff, or rides his bike for hours into the woods and meets a mountain lion. Well, hon, I had mine today... about 100 times over!

I have a video to show the insane drive we took up to the Ganges River. No, it wasn't switch-back mountain driving, though there were moments of that, driving into the foothills of the Himalayas and all. No, it was the hundreds of near-misses and head-on collisions with motorcycles, buses, and even cows. The taxi driver was quite good, looking back, but it was a non-stop adrenaline-rush for sure. These people would be really, really good at those driving video games. I still have no earthly idea how we never hit anything or anyone, but we are safe and sound on a train at the moment, so no worries. If you want to pray for something, I think I'm now more worried about crashing than getting sick.

Anyway, the reason we drove to Rishikesh today was to see a pilgrimage that Hindus take every 12 years. They trek for miles to end up at the River Ganges. They believe that the river has special properties and healing powers...flowing from the Hindu gods. Many elderly people make the trip in hopes to die there. I wouldn't doubt if there were a million people along the river today.

Our crazy taxi driver took us as far as cars were permitted and dropped us off. We made the uncomfortable walk down to the river amongst thousands of poor, barefoot, lost people trying to find salvation. It was a bit unnerving to say the least. Abdul led us through the crowds, and Kevin protected us from the back. Linda and I couldn't stand the stench or the unknown germs, so we covered our faces with scarves and tried not to suffocate. On the way back uphill it got quite hot, but I wasn't about to take that scarf away from my face. I thought I might pass out because my breathing was so impeded, but I made it. Never would want to do it again, but fascinated nonetheless.

The "Slumber Party"

We asked the girls participating in their month-long ashram to show us their dormitory. Turns out it was one small room with about 4 beds and 4 cushions on the floor. When we walked in, Jayanti, the only girl who spoke English, said "Welcome, please sit." There was no place to sit but on the beds, so we plopped ourselves there. So here we were, a couple of American white girls sitting around on beds and cushions with 8 beautiful Indian girls in colorful tunics and leggings. But after a while, it just felt like a few girlfriends at a slumber party.

Through Jayanti, the girls asked us questions about where we live, our children, and we showed them numerous pictures on our iPhone and iPad. They told us that they like to sit and talk with girlfriends for fun. Only boys played outside with balls and things, they said. Then Babita asked if we'd pray for her. Then, someone else asked. Finally, I just took out my notebook and started writing all the requests down. We were called to dinner several times, but everyone wanted to tell us their requests. Then others wanted me to add more to theirs. Many wanted prayer for wisdom and understanding, to learn the material, to learn English, to learn to read and write. Many had sick relatives who needed healing.

We obviously were late for dinner. But totally worth it. The "slumber party" moment was my favorite part so far.

My First Impressions

Well, I've been in India for 3 days now. I have to admit that the first thing I noticed was the dirt and smog. I had heard this, but you never can understand until you experience it firsthand. The air is unlike any place in the world: thick, hazy, dirty, and very smelly....no, that is not nearly strong enough of a word, the stench is almost unbearable. The air burns your eyes, your sinuses, and your throat. Then there is the filth and trash. Piles of it everywhere and anywhere...on the street, behind your house, in the woods... And on the city streets, there are cows...yes, regular moo-moo cows. Cows are sacred in the Hindu culture, so you don't dare kill them. No beef here. And don't ask me what they eat because it's not like there is grass... I guess they eat the trash. And where do they use the restroom? The same place many of the people do... on the street.

I have met some amazing people, don't get me wrong, I'll get to that in a minute. It's just interesting what you cannot glean from any picture or video presentation. I've never ever encountered anything like it. We went on a six hour train ride to the north of Delhi yesterday and the sea of people never stopped. There are over 1 billion people here. One town just spills over into the next. Building after building, tent after tent, shack after shack. The poverty is evident in every mile traveled.

Now, picture the kind of homes you see on movies about Iraq...that is what I saw as i rode through town after town. White concrete, two-story structures that look like they have been bombed, with pieces missing and added to, rubble and trash on the ground around them, but then, ironically, a vine of beautiful flowers will be growing up the wall for aesthetics. Some houses look like they could have been beautiful at one time, with rooftop balconies and interesting architectural design, but apparently no resources for upkeep. There is the occasional house that looks like someone cared, like the training center we visited, but then it will be next door to a pile of rubble decorated with trash. There is no such thing as a "nice side of town" - even the Prime Minister's estate wasn't impressive.

You know how a modern/contemporary home will have a blank canvas of white walls to highlight the colorful art? Well, that is India. The array of colors showcased by its people is a stark contrast to its backdrop of ruin. I wish I was a photographer. (Lane, you are going to have the time of your life here taking pictures!) The colors are awesome! The women's saris and tunics are a walking art exhibit.

Speaking of the people, they are not only beautiful, but very gentle and friendly. Meet Abdul, the soft spoken young man in charge of Dehradun Bible Ashram ("ashram" is a way of learning through spending time with a guru or master). Every time we got into a taxi, he and the driver would talk non-stop like they were old friends. We'd ask who that was and he'd say, "oh, that is just the taxi driver." Conversation and relationships are important in this culture. The young men and women at the Ashram were kind, humble, and gentle. They love the Lord deeply and want to learn whatever they can, even if they cannot read or write. In that case, a fellow student studies with them to be sure they get their homework completed. They look forward to going back to their home towns and teaching others. It was refreshing to see their passion.

We also met the Hindu girls at the sewing centre. A Christian Indian woman teaches girls from the community to sew so they can make a living. She hopes that some will come to know Christ in their time together as well.

So, my first impressions range from utter disgust to a feeling of warmth. Quite a couple of days.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Off to India...

I am leaving in a few minutes to head to the airport in Dallas. Linda Maikowski and I are the only ones on this trip. We have a relatively short flight to Chicago, and then ONE LONG FLIGHT non-stop to Delhi, India. I can't even believe an airplane can travel that long without filling up with gas!

We'll get into India on Wednesday Night, meet up with Kevin from New Zealand, and hopefully sleep well for a night. Then a train to Dehradun the next morning. Looking forward to all that God is going to show me and all the cool people I will meet!

My girls did great this morning going to school without any tears! Thank you to Sara Garza for taking care of them a few afternoons per week! They are so looking forward to it, Sara!

Thank you, Jack, for encouraging me to go on this trip. I know you have a lot on your plate these next few weeks. I know you and the girls will build an extra-special bond with each other.

I'll be in India until my birthday and then Thailand for the rest of the time. Be back on May 2nd. Please pray for safety and health.

You may read about our organization at www.HOPEworldpartnerships.org. Linda & I are opening the U.S. Office for New Zealand-based Bright Hope World. This is an exploratory/educational trip to meet some of our partners in Asia. We can't wait to be inspired.

You can follow us on Twitter.com/HOPEwp

Well, off I go!

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Ready for a Change of Heart

Now that the flights are booked, I have my Visas, and I am thoroughly vaccinated, the reality of my travels hits me. In April, I am off to India & Thailand...Then in August, 3 countries in Africa. I am going to places where there are so many diseases which can make you deathly ill, that I need not only my normally good immune system, but I need 8 shots, 4 pills, a flu mist, 3 booster shots, and 55 malaria pills to safely go there! This reality is only the beginning. I haven't even seen the conditions the people have to live in... like 110 degrees with 100% humidity and no A/C...dirt, disease, desperation.

My life is going to be changed this year, and I am glad. I want God to show Himself to me in a way He never has before. I want my heart to grow bigger. I want to see the world as God sees it. I want the knowledge that I've put into my brain all these years to be applied. Christianity needs to take on a whole new meaning for me. God tells us to love and I want to truly love. I am ready for God to change my heart.